At Ferro’s Famous, it’s a slice of New York in West Seneca

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We’re off to New York, kids. The Big Onion. The trendy borough of West Seneca to be exact.

Surprisingly we’re not here to build condos, cocktail bars and candle shops. We’re on board this train for a taste of the old country at Ferro’s Famous NY Pizza.

A true slice shop with eight or so pies lying seductively in wait behind the steamy glass (Lord have mercy), once you’ve made your picks from the corral they pop in and out of the oven to freshen up before placed on two full-sized paper plates.

Unless your job involves naps (please send me an application), I’m cautioning you to keep it at a one-and-done on lunch, but you do you. I’m just saying, pink slips don’t buy pizza. Let’s run the numbers.

Dough: This dough is gonna shred your fake gluten allergy because it has God-tier pull and chew that you would expect from a proper New York slice. Dough to steel contact is delivering the brown crisp undercarriage you’re looking for, flaking but not splitting on the fold. About as thick as an iPhone, if you want razor thin this isn’t going to fully check that box. I’m a hybrid-style supporter and a NY Face with a Buffalo booty works for me.

A closer look at the New York Style pizza from Ferro’s. (Robert Kirkham/Buffalo News)

Cheese: We’re deviating from the path a bit. Quantity is adequate, but a few more magical mozzarella shakes over the surface would have been ideal. It’s quality product, not crying grease from every orifice and pulling long and limber with each bite. A browned and bubbled surface is not a bonafide job deliverable from the NY slice, but it doesn’t mean I don’t want it. It’s solid overall, but not a highlight of the slice.

Sauce: NY slice shops are notoriously skimpy on sauce, but Ferro’s has broken the mold. I’m captain of the saucy schooner, and we’re sailing high tide here my friend. It’s a basil-forward heavy sauce, but it’s nothing I would call special beyond that. Good quality in great quantity.

Josue Allende throws dough at Ferro’s Famous NY Pizza. (Robert Kirkham/Buffalo News)

Pepperoni: Woof. Cup & Char is finally catching on out East (see Prince Street Pizza in NYC) and it’s not tough to see why. Like flame to the Neanderthal, the blazing beauty of our spicy crunchy greasy roni cups has finally lit a path for the public. As we learn to leave behind the warm bologna-textured pepperoni of the past, Ferro’s is a little behind the times. Even if you’re going flat, there’s better product out there that packs a punch.

Overall: (B) Ferro’s is doing a fine job executing the NY slice, not only at the product level, but in its business model as well.

The perpetual rotation of pies from the oven to the counter then back to the oven for a warmup is a hypnotizing dance that should be in continuous performance at any slice shop worth standing on line for.

Ferro’s has the steps down for certain, but I’d advise you steer clear of the cheese & pep. This one was unfortunately harpooned by the topping, and when you’re staring at a sea of exotic options standing at the ready, it’s an easy misstep to avoid. Easily a high “B,” low “A” with a topping swap.


Ferro’s Famous NY Pizza

Address: 3521 Seneca St., West Seneca

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Lunch deal: a slice (special or non), salad and 22-ounce drink, $6.

Large cheese and pepperoni: $15.95

Deal: Large cheese and one topping on Mondays, $14.95.

Exotic pizza: Eggplant parm ($19.95, large). House red sauce base topped with mozzarella cheese and breaded eggplant.

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Ferro’s Famous NY Pizza at 3521 Seneca St. in West Seneca. (Robert Kirkham/Buffalo News)